How to Cook with Indian Spices, According to a Colorado Pro

Bina Mehta, a Fort Collins–based Indian chef and spice master, shares her expertise, from what to stock in your pantry to misconceptions about masala and curry powders.

The Local newsletter is your free, daily guide to life in Colorado. For locals, by locals. Sign up today!

Bina Mehta grew up in Mumbai, India, practicing Ayurveda, the ancient Indian medical system based on natural and holistic approaches to physical and mental health. But she didn't think much of the traditions, which encompassed eating seasonally and using certain herbs and spices in cooking to achieve a mind-body balance, until she moved to the United States in 1973 with her husband. They settled in Fort Collins, where Indian cuisine was just beginning to gain popularity. That's when Mehta began preparing dishes she ate growing up, which she made with as many traditional ingredients as she could find in Colorado, for houseguests.

"All the friends and family who used to come to my house when I used to cook with all these spices… They would say, "Oh my god, I feel so good about the food I eat when you cook it," Mehta says. "That's because spices can be packed with antioxidants and anti-inflammatory phytonutrients and have health-promoting properties. They can actually help your digestive tract and boost up your metabolism and digestion."

The rave reviews led Mehta to deepen her studies of Ayurveda and Indian cooking. Now she is a certified Ayurvedic lifestyle consultant, cooking teacher, and author. In 2018, she released a book called Turmeric & Spice, which features some of her favorite tried-and-true recipes and guidance on using Indian ingredients. Soon after, she also released a line of custom spice blends sourced via Fort Collins’ Old Town Spice Shop. Customer favorites include her detoxification-promoting Maharani Masala; her cardamom- and saffron-tinged chai seasoning; and earthy and smoky cumin which Mehta hand-roasts.

Here, she shares some tips for working with Indian seasonings and a recipe for her Bombay Masala Fish. Order her book, which covers many of the topics featured below in more detail, and her spices online here.

To build a library of versatile Indian spices, Mehta recommends acquiring these 10 essentials.

You don't have to buy them all, but investing in a wide variety of spices—especially whole ones—enables you to craft your own blends and make a wide range of recipes, whether you’re craving creamy, tomato-based chicken tikka masala (a northern Indian dish) or herbaceous hariyali chicken kebabs (a roadside staple in Bombay).

If you’re working with whole spices such as coriander, cardamom, mustard seeds, and cloves, be sure to roast them on the stovetop or in the oven before grinding them. The heat extracts additional flavor, releases phytonutrients (antioxidants) and can help the spices keep for longer if stored properly. But be careful: They will turn bitter if you overcook them, so take them off the heat once they start to darken and become fragrant. If you want to skip this step, look for spices that are pre-roasted and ground. "Then you don't have to worry about releasing the phytonutrients for health benefits," Mehta says.

If you’re seeking a shortcut, spice blends like Mehta's (which come pre-roasted and ground) are also a convenient option. When buying products, Mehta says to keep in mind that the term "masala" broadly refers to a combination of spices used in a dish, and different blends have different flavors and uses. Indian curries can contain any number of spices and herbs, depending on the maker, and are not just made with the all-purpose powder sold at the grocery store, which was popularized by Westerners.

Also, adding spices to dishes doesn't necessarily mean you’re increasing the heat level, and not all Indian food is meant to be fiery. "I was never raised [to eat something] that would hurt my tongue or my stomach. I was raised with flavorful, aromatic food that gets your juices going when you smell it," Mehta says. "[The word] ‘spice’ doesn't align with the spicy."

Indian spices aren't just for making Indian food. They can jazz up everything from pastas and vegetable dishes to casseroles and drinks. For example, Mehta likes to sprinkle her Maharani Masala, a blend of fennel, ginger, mango powder, and coriander, into pasta with alfredo sauce. Cumin—which is used in a variety of cuisines from Mexico to the Mediterranean—is a great addition to chilis and yogurt-based dips. She's even used her chai spice blend, which is formulated for brewing tea, to season Brussels sprouts, French toast, and ice cream. "These spices are so versatile," she says.

Ghee—a staple of Indian cuisine and medicine—is produced by slowly heating unsalted cow's milk to remove the water, a method that yields a subtly nutty cooking fat and condiment. The clarified butter has many potential health benefits beyond enhancing the flavor of food, according to Mehta, including dissolving toxins in the body, lubricating organs and joints, and aiding digestion. Mehta makes her own ghee (and you can, too, with her recipe) which she uses for sautéing, spreading on toast, and many other purposes. But the product is also available for sale at many local grocery stores. "It also has a very high smoke point and shelf life," she says. "It can be stored at room temperature for years."

India is blessed with the Arabian Sea to the west and the Bay of Bengal to the east, as well as many rivers, making fish a popular protein in many areas. Ayurvedic principles also promote fish as a lighter animal protein compared to poultry and red meat. This quick, easy, and delicious crowd-pleaser is the perfect dish for beginning cooks.

Serves 4 (3 to 4 ounces of fish per person)

½ cup onions, finely diced¼ cup celery, finely diced¼ cup bell peppers, finely diced1 Tbs. salt (or to taste)½ tsp. red chile powder½ tsp. ground black pepper1 Tbs. Bina Mehta's Bombay Masala spice blend or tandoori masala powder1 1/3 lbs. cod or other white fish6 Tbs. ghee4 Tbs. rice flour or arrowroot flour4 cups fish or vegetable stock½ chopped green onion, to garnish

18 of the Best Indian Restaurants on the Front RangeLove This, Eat That: What to Order at Indian Restaurants (Besides Tikka Masala)Battle of the Indian Buffets: Himchuli vs. Little India6 Denver-Area Eateries Slinging Divine Indian-Inspired DrinksTotal Vegan Indian Restaurant Is A Haven for Plant EatersWhy You Shouldn't Skip Dessert at Spice Room in Highlands