How to make vegetable samosas

These Indian staples are great to make ahead for picnics and packed lunches alike, plus the filling is so versatile, it can be tailored to your liking

Homemade samosas are a world away from those dry. cardboard triangles sold under the name in supermarkets. Instead, they have delicately flaky and deliciously rich pastry and a generous stuffing that's easily tweaked to suit all tastes. Veggie-friendly, portable and very moreish, they’re easy to prepare ahead, too, making them a great choice for picnics or taking to work for lunch.

Prep 15 minRest Up to 1 dayCook 1 hrMakes 24 mini samosas or 12 larger ones

For the pastry130g plain flour¼ tsp salt½ tsp nigella seeds (optional)2 tbsp neutral oil, plus extra for greasing

For the filling1 medium potato (about 175g)1 small green chilli1 tbsp finely grated ginger1 tbsp neutral oil½ onion, finely chopped½ carrot, finely chopped50g green cabbage, cored and finely shredded50g paneer, cut into small dice (optional; or crumbled feta, chopped cashews or peanuts, or more of the vegetables)Fine salt40g peasJuice of ½ lemon1 small bunch fresh coriander, finely choppedNeutral oil, for deep-frying

For the masala10g cinnamon sticks1 tsp cloves1½ tsp cumin seeds3-4 small dried red chillies

To make the pastry (if you’re really averse to pastry making, you could use two layers of filo brushed with melted butter instead, but I promise you it's worth the relatively minimal effort), put the flour in a large bowl and whisk in the salt and nigella seeds, if using (though optional, they look pretty and taste great).

Rub the oil into the flour, then add just enough cold water (probably about 50ml) to bring everything together into a stiff dough. Knead the pastry on a lightly greased surface for about five minutes, until smooth, then brush with a little oil, cover and leave to rest. (You can make this a day ahead and store, wrapped in the fridge.)

Give the potato a good scrub (leave the skin on, unless it's very dirty) and put it in a small pan of cold water with a generous shake of salt. Bring to a boil, simmer until tender in the centre, then drain, return to the hot pan and leave to steam dry. Roughly mash the potato, then set aside.

While the potato is cooking, finely chop the chilli, removing the seeds and pith if you don't want the samosas to be too hot. Pound to a paste with the grated ginger, then set aside. Toast the ingredients for the masala in a hot pan until fragrant, then grind to a smooth powder.

Put the oil in a large frying pan on a medium heat and fry the onion until soft. Add the carrot, turn down the heat slightly, and cook, stirring, for five minutes. Add the cabbage and fry for another five or so minutes, until it's beginning to soften. Meanwhile, if using paneer, sprinkle it with salt (there's no need to do this if you’re using a saltier cheese).

Add the paneer and peas, cook for a couple of minutes, then stir in the ginger and chilli paste and half a teaspoon of the masala spice blend, and cook, stirring, for another couple of minutes. Stir in the mashed potato and lemon juice, then season to taste. (You can, if need be, make the filling a couple of days in advance.)

Divide the pastry into 12 x roughly 18g balls for small samosas (or six x 35g ones for larger pastries), then cover with a damp tea towel so they don't dry out. Roll out one ball into a roughly 10cm-diameter circle (or 18cm for larger samosas), then cut it in half. Wet the round edge of one half with water, form into a cone, then press together the edges to seal.

Stir the coriander into the filling mixture, then stuff into the cone. Wet the top edge, pinch to close, then fold over any remaining pastry. Repeat with the remaining dough balls and filling, making sure each samosa is well sealed. (Once filled, they can be kept, covered and in the fridge, for a few hours until you’re ready to fry.)

Heat a deep frying pan with about 4cm of oil to about 175C (or use a deep-fat fryer). When the oil has come up to temperature, add a batch of samosas (don't overcrowd the pan) and cook until golden brown, turning as necessary. Scoop on to paper towels and serve immediately, or pack in a single layer for transporting.